dahlia progress

hello friends! long time no see. it seems like this blog is looking like more of a monthly thing rather than a weekly one like I planned..it’s okay, I have an excuse! the wifi has STILL been down at work, and as I mentioned before that’s where I do most of my internetting. but we got a new router, so hopefully it’s back for good!
first off, what have I been up to? my dahlia is SO CLOSE to being done. I made a second muslin after recutting a size 6 all around, and it was still doing weird stuff. I was pinching all over the place trying to figure out what to do, when I pinched out the sleeve seam and EVERYTHING FELL INTO PLACE. seriously, it was like magic. suddenly the shoulders were fine, the yoke went into the right spot, everything. it was amazing. here’s my before and after pinning picture:

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LOOK HOW PERF

LOOK HOW PERF

so I figured out I needed a narrow shoulder adjustment. fixed the pattern pieces, and because I was getting impatient I didn’t bother making another muslin. I got right onto making the final dress! [actually that’s a lie. the second muslin sat for a while, then I made the adjustment on the pattern and thAT sat for a while, then I traced and cut new pattern pieces and those sat for a while..]

I got as far as putting in the zipper, but I don’t have an invisible zipper foot so it didn’t come out as nice as I would have liked it. I banged out the whole construction up to that point in a day so I was frustrated with it and put it aside..and of course, haven’t picked it up since. I documented most of the construction in a snapchat story, which is actually super fun and neat to see the whole thing go together. I saved most of the photos to post here, but there are a few holes.
I also saved most of the photos before captioning them, so I will try to remember and recreate..photo dump ahead:

all cut out and ready to go!

all cut out and ready to go!

dahlia fuckup #1

dahlia fuckup #1


dahlia fuckup #1..I always manage to sew at least one seam like this. seam rippers are your friend!

this is the point in which I realized I did a narrow shoulder adjustment on the bodice pieces bUT NOT THE SLEEVES. trying to sew the sleeve to the front bodice and finding a whole inch of extra fabric at the end was not fun. after much cursing, I made the adjustments and cut out new sleeves. always buy extra fabric, friends!

everything lines up!!

everything lines up!!


not pictured: I fucked up that same seam as in the previous picture. fuck me, right?

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the gray suiting frays like a bitch and a half, so I used the mock-overlock on my machine. I wish my serger wasn’t dead :c

grading seams is messy. D+

grading seams is messy. D+

bodice completed!

bodice completed!

hahahahahaha fuck you side seam

hahahahahaha fuck you side seam

invisible zippers are scary

invisible zippers are scary

and that’s all I got. somehow the picture of the mostly completed dress got lost, too.

I was going to also post about my new year’s resolution and what else I’ve been working on, but this is gearing up to be a large post so I think I’ll split it up!

see you soon, friends!

dahlia sewalong – part two

hello again, friends! it’s been a while. I’ve had a crazy month filled with crazy happenings–both good and bad–so I apologize for my absence. mainly the wifi has been down at work, and that’s where I do most of my blogging! unfortunately, the insanity has cut into my sewing time so I haven’t made too much progress on my dahlia. I did make a muslin, though! I haven’t made a muslin since my senior prom dress back in 2010. I know it’s a great habit to get into, but I’m impatient! I do plan on making muslins much more often now, hopefully I’ll stick to it!
anyway, I’m very glad I made a muslin for my dahlia because I need to make some adjustments. I also noticed a few goofs I made: when I cut the paper pattern, instead of grading the bodice from a 4 to a 6 at the waist, I had cut a straight 4. so I ended up grading the waist yoke as a temporary fix, which kind of goofed up my muslin a bit. I also didn’t actually grade the skirt pieces like I planned [late night pattern cutting is bad for you!], but that was an easy fix.
so! here’s a dinky phone mirror pic of my bodice muslin. please excuse my tummy, I haven’t done the skirt muslin yet.

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I have some gapey shoulder thing going on, which will hopefully be fixed with the neckline gathering. it’s a bit large in the bust [I don’t like ease, like, at all.] but it’s tight in the back and arms. here’s an awkward photo of the back I took with a potato:

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looking at the photos it doesn’t really seem bad, but it’s tough to get in and out of..mostly out of. I have to pull it inside out over my head and my shoulders pop and it’s not fun. I actually have that problem in a good amount of clothing I own..I don’t know what that means though. broad shoulders? large high bust? I’ll have to look into that. anyway, I plan on re-cutting the bodice in a size 6 and doing a small bust adjustment [which sounds weird to me since I’m used to, ahem, busting out of most clothing]. I’m not used to adjusting patterns for fit; I usually either sew patterns straight or [more often than not] make up my own “patterns” and wing it as I go. which is useful for the knits I usually work with, but dealing with unforgiving wovens following a specific pattern is another story!
so that’s as far as I’ve gotten in the month or so of this sewalong. great progress, huh?! that’s how I do.
I have, however, bought three new patterns and am planning a fully tailored peacoat for the boy. I’m real good at planning, and buying things.

dahlia sewalong – part one

hello friends!

I’ve been (im)patiently awaiting the next sewalong post¬†on fit and cutting, so I could make any adjustments/grading before I started cutting up my pattern. I plan on making version one, although I prefer the skirt on version two so I might switch it up. I’m a newbie at adjusting patterns, so I don’t want to mess anything up! I’ve only ever sewn straight sizes, even though I prefer much less ease than what is generally given. I absolutely noticed it in a dress I made from simplicity 2886. I only wore it a couple times, since it fit so weird, and then one of the straps broke and I haven’t been bothered to fix it.

anyway! I picked a fabric from my stash for this adorable dress; it’s from back when I worked at JoAnn’s and bought just about any plaid fabric that I saw. it’s a medium weight plaid suiting in lavender, grey, and a bit of shimmery metallic silver. I never wrote down anything about the fabrics I bought, but I think it’s some sort of poly blend. it’s pretty soft, with a slight stretch to it. here’s a potato picture under incandescent light:

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I can’t find it on the website; I bought it over 5 years ago and I’m pretty sure it was from one of the featured spring collections. I only bought 2 1/2 yards of it though, so I’ve been brainstorming ideas on how to make it work since dahlia calls for 2 1/8, plus the extra for matching plaids. I was hoping once I cut out the pattern I could finagle it, but I much prefer the fuller version 2 skirt and I wasn’t sure how that would look with the plaid. after showing the pattern to one of the residents here at the senior home, she suggested colour blocking and ideas started flowing! I’ll need to pick up a solid fabric, probably in a charcoal grey. my plan is to cut the bodice, waistband yoke, and skirt center panels in the plaid, and the sleeves and skirt side panels in the solid grey. here’s a quick ‘n dirty sketch I did over the pattern line drawings to get a feel for how it’d look (again, sorry for potato quality. I’m at work and only have my cell phone camera on me!):

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tonight I’ll be making adjustments and cutting out the paper pattern, and hopefully will get started on a muslin tomorrow. as my first sewalong, and the first pattern I’ve used in a while, I really want this to be perfect!

later, friends!